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21.06. - 01.07.2012 Odyssey through Istanbul
Sonja:
Aleks had also other guests besides us, a very nice couple, Alex and Jimena, from Costa Rica and the United States (Blog, photos, Pottery), who are on an eight-month trip around the world by plane. They immediately equipped us with a tourist map and explained all points of interest. During our stay, we then, of course, visited some places which are part of the compulsory program of every tourist in Istanbul: Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, various bazaars, Basilica Cistern and Prince's Islands. But there was also a lot of work and organization to do. The bikes were brought to the workshop, so that Olli's creaking bearings and other small ailments could be fixed, and we optimized, supplemented and updated our equipment. A huge thank you to SQlab, the manufacturer of our saddles. Because of the extreme strain over several thousand kilometers, now and on previous tours, several material damages had occurred, which is why the company immediately agreed to send two new saddles for free to our support Thomas in Germay. That's what I call great customer service!
For the onward journey to Iran I bought a tunic at the Grand Bazaar, for which I toughly haggled with the dealer about the price. In Iran it is compulsory for women to wear a top with long sleeves and without plunging neckline, which goes down to mid-thigh or at least covers the butt, so that all feminine curves are veiled, including headscarf and long pants, of course. We were a little shocked then when we inquired about visa for Iran at the Iranian Embassy. We were told quite repellently, that we would need a so-called reference number, which is only available via an expensive travel agency or from friends or relatives in Iran, which both, of course, takes several weeks to process. And when we asked the German embassy for help they said they couldn't do anything for us. Luckily, Jens and Sabine (Fahrradnomaden) are a few weeks ahead of us and after a phone call to them we were reliefed as they could apply for visas successfully in Trabzon within just one day. Now this is our plan, too. A short commercial break: In front of the Iranian Embassy we met 2 other German cyclists who belong to a group of four people from Berlin cycling to India to collect money for charity. Here you can go to their home page.
Olli:
For me, big cities usually mean stress, as there is always something to organize. What I like very much about Istanbul is the fact that there exist several religions side by side without going on each other's nerves. Different than at home in Bavaria, where only a cross on the wall or a teacher with a headscarf can cause mass hysteria. I also like the gulls here, especially in the morning, when they wake me with their cackle. Sounds like an old bicycle horn. Even if everything runs more chaotic than in major German cities, everything has its course somehow. Particularly annoying here are merchants trying to pull you in their shops by calling "Hello my brother" or "hello my friend". A real pain in the ass. Just don't react and avoid eye contact, then they leave you alone.
The highlight was a trip to the Prince's Islands, which are a popular destination for tourists and Turks from Istanbul. According to our guide book, which we had obtained from the tourist office, on the last and largest island (there are a total of 5) you really can let your mind wander and escape the bustle of the city, because there is no car traffic, but only horse carriages and bicycles, and you can enjoy the untouched nature. I should have known better. When we arrived, it was anything but calm there. Pushy hawkers everywhere and you have to be very careful not to be run over by a coach or a bicycle. When they are talking about untouched nature they don't mention all the garbage piling up along the roadside. They perhaps call it untouched since the garbage is thrown and nobody literally touches the vegetation... hahaha. We then decided to go on a carriage ride to get out of the hustle and bustle safer and faster. When we asked for the price, the driver said 16 Lira, but at the end of the ride he suddenly wanted to have 60. Was it on purpose that he spoke unclearly or misspoke? ;) That's exactly why I hate mass tourism.
Another adventurous experience we had with our package of spare parts from Germany. We had it sent to the main post office of Istanbul. But the problem is, that there is not just one big post office in Istanbul. We went at least 5 times to the main post office and every time I was told that they couldn't help us and that we should come back the next day. That reminded me so much of my job as a geriatric nurse in Germany. To use your brain prohibited. I just don't understand, why the lady at the counter, which didn't understand us, didn't get another colleague to help us. Anyway, we finally had enough and looked for another person in the office to help us. We were lucky to find an English speaking man whose wife works in an international post station. She then found out the correct parcel number which didn't match with our DHL number, because it is changed when crossing the border. Then, the clerk finally found out the location of our mail and gave us the address of another post office. At last, someone was able to help us ;). The cigarette he offered us in compensation, we politely declined. After a 1.5-hour ride on the Metro plus walking, we finally reached the other post office. Now the real fun started. Do you by any chance know the film about Asterix and Obelix, in which they get the task to get the pass A38 in the house that makes crazy? ;). First pass the main entrance and go around the building to the back door, then go to desk 4, then 3, then to a desk without number, then desk 1, 2 and 3 again. In two places we had to pay money for processing and storage, and our package was opened to check it on alcohol and drugs. Good thing was that we met a young Turkish woman who was fluent in German, and which translated for us the whole procedure. After over 7 hours we were entirely wiped out by the Turkish bureaucracy, which works on the principle of chaos. Back in Aleks' apartment, we were so happy to finally hold our new saddles in hands. The unanimous comment on our little odyssey from Aleks and our grocer on the corner: Welcome to Turkey. That's normal here.
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